Friday, January 30, 2009

Kronborg Slot- Helsingør





Last Saturday I visited Kronborg Slot, the infamous castle of the brooding Hamlet and his story of revenge, murder, and death. Located in the town of Helsingør, it sits right up against the waterway that separates Denmark from Sweden. All day long ferries go back and forth between the two countries.



In older times, the Danish King collected taxes or dues from every ship that passed through this waterway.







During WW2, the castle and its buildings were occupied by the German Army as its location was perfect for watching for Russian submarines. After Danish occupation ended, the Danish military took it over and used it for the same reasons during the Cold War. It was only in 1992 that the buildings were no longer used by the military.



The castle still contained some of the original tapestries and narrative paintings of old Kings and Queens.







The casements are still open for the public and are light by random candles placed along the walkways. It is VERY dark and at times I almost ran into the walls without realizing it! The tunnel system is where the soldiers used to live when the castle was in its full use.


Damp, cold and dark, the rooms did not offer much happiness and I can't imagine having to have stayed down there. Even to sleep would have been very dull and depressing.



The castle burned down in in the 1600's and was rebuilt by 1690. The chapel was untouched by the fire.









Also in the basement of the castle waits the sleeping Holger Danske, who will rise again someday when Denmark is in trouble.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Folder A:080, læg 3

This essay was written after I came across a diary of a Danish woman in Greenland- #A:080, læg 3, June 1904. The writing is fictional while trying to capture the complexity of her situation- a complete foreigner negotiating her new surrounding.
________________________________________________________________

She is a woman in Greenland strolling amongst dogs and feces. Her husband brought her there and her children cause her to stay. She mends their socks when big toes force themselves free. She gathers ice for water when the pipes are too weak against the weather. At times she mistakes the undulation of the ice for the waves of the cornstalks in October’s wind. She wonders if she misses Denmark. But she can’t remember, as if a northern breath has swept it clean like the fjord in winter, jagged and crying.

She writes home of the animals she has seen: the walrus and its bulging eyes, the seal and its funny hands. The birds migrating in the summer along the cliffs, the eggs they hatch and the eggs that she takes from them. The alpine vegetation she read about living in the Swiss Alps, the willow and the lichen, but she observes them growing here.

She writes about longing: A fresh apple eaten in October picked straight from the tree in Jutland. A cool June rain harkening the grass to reach for the heavens. An even winter sky that allows only a few hours of darkness to cradle slumber and a summer sky that calms its sun long enough to mimic night and nestle the body into rest. She ponders her aloneness when her husband and children have found sleep and she is awake to hear their breathing. She never knew that so many could learn to breathe in the same rhythm.


And she apologizes, for not being more poetic, for too few letters, for complaining, for being too emotional and vulnerable. Greenland is not for the weak, she tries to explain but her Danish handwriting seems foreign to her, out of place and forced in this land of popping consonants. She apologizes for sounding like she yearns for sympathy or a return to Denmark. She is not lying when she writes these things. But she wonders if language will really resolve the complexities that entwine her feelings.

Yet, they do not understand. They read and discuss what she writes, over lunch and dinner, during tea and coffee, when helping each other in the garden, before falling asleep at night. They discuss each sentence, each word and adjective she has used to assemble Greenland into a fixed meaning for them. They wonder why she has told them of so many intimacies. They wonder if she will return as their daughter or if they have lost her to the frozen ice and breath, her constant friends. In their dreams they construct her world, adding blues when she really sees reds and golds, placing feasts with wine on her table where there is none - no trade ship passing to deliver such superb items.



Her radius is simple and she often desires to gaze beyond doors left ajar and condensation on windows. It is always a crevasse or a mountain or a river that obstructs her inland sleepwalking. Winter storms snuff out all inner horizon lines and bring bored visitors to the house for coffee and sugar. The constant rumbling of the fledgling ice falling from the summer icebergs frightens her from wandering too far away. It accompanies her children’s voices threading their way out the school’s windows, around the speckled houses and church, galloping like horses down the hill and into her ears while she sits with her lady friends discussing Sunday’s psalm. She falls back, synchronizing her laugh to the beat of the conversation. Yearning to locate herself amongst the other Danish women finding life in Greenland, she finds only fur-covered ghosts pulling her away to an unknown Greenland.

She sees them in the corners of her house when she prepares dinner. They seek her eye contact and she feigns cataracts. They
brush past her, offering advice though she asks for none. It is time for the white whales to come, it is time for the narwhals to gather, they say. They tell her stories of Sila deep in the sea and her lovely hair scattered with lice. Who will comb her hair now, they ask her? She believes that if she responds to them, she will never see Denmark again. Sometimes she can smell them, their sealskins and hair, dog fur fringed mittens and small bone amulets. She blames her children, sending them to their bath in hope that it will cleanse the house.


And she writes home, to Denmark from Greenland. From a world that exists nowhere else, ever. From a blue shuttered house and polar bear rug. Frozen ink on a winter’s day that she carries to the kitchen, sitting near the stove. Each piece of paper fills with her hopes and her past week, her children and her husband, her neighbors and their families, her weather and her boots, her skirts and her timeline for when she will return to see them again.

They are old. Their waiting wanes. Her letters arrive to an empty window facing Northwest, staring out for her ship, for her stormy return. They fall into their graves looking up towards the sky imagining hare and gerfalcon, ice crystals and green glaciers. Imagining her seated by a fog-filled window waiting for their letters discussing summer jams and autumn rains. But all is too late. The boat cannot break through the early ice. The exchange is not made. The letters are thrown overboard because of failure and embarrassment. Falling to the bottom, they become lost and tangled in Sila’s hair.

And she gives in and dives down deep pushing past seals and whales to comb out their words.

Monday, December 15, 2008

We remember ourselves


Archives break up intimacies of the afterlife like an icebreaker creates left and right. We are pieces, small pieces, rising with tide leaving our traces. Volcanoes today and forests tomorrow. Dusty-haired and dirty-jeaned from sludging through life's tauntings. And the archive waits for us, lid open.

The hands of our grandchildren close around us. It was difficult for our children to part with us. So they pawned us to those younger who could not visualize the times we lived in. We were their greatest generation who struggled more, who wisened to life earlier. Now they know good times and we get to know ourselves.

This box contains our passports, that one our sledge flags. Letters to our lady friends are separated from letters to our parents. Photos taken with brother and sister become mixed with photos of our first love. We always kept them detached by false walls. Now their only walls distance them from written words. Even in death we cannot remain whole.

In the attic, in the basement, in the warehouse and closet, we are kept. Pieces of ourselves all around, quiet or tempestuous, muffled by box lids and closed folders. We recollect when we were caught, lifted, turned, trampled, loved, thrown, silent, overjoyed. Finally the silence enables us to gaze at projections of ourselves. And those of others, we now see through the snowstorm, their joys and sorrows. We realize the texture of their chaotic emotions endured as much as ours. And all is kept warm by the fires of memory.

Friday, December 12, 2008

Han længes også efter grønland igen (he also is longing for Greenland again)

'Modern memory is, above all, archival. It relies entirely on the materiality of the trace, the immediacy of the recordings, the visibility of the image.' - Pierra Nora

'Lieux de memoire originates with the sense that there is no spontaneous memory, that we must deliberately create archives, maintain anniversaries, organize celebrations,... because such activities no longer occur naturally' -Pierre Nora

It has been a while since I last wrote. Since it is now coming towards the end of December, I have begun to wrap up my project. This has been very hard since I think I could spend another year going through the Arctic Institute's archive and not be bored.

The following writing is a fiction piece I am working on for my show in mid January at the Institute. I have attached a few of the photographs, too. I hope to have about 6 essays, both fiction and nonfiction, dealing with aspects of the Arctic Institute's collections and Archives.

To give you background on the writing and to briefly familiarize you on who Hinrich Rink was: He was a Danish scientist who lived in Grønland for over 25 years. He soon became Inspector of South Grønland. He was a prolific writer and researcher and was quite the humanitarian- he was very aware of the intricacies of the Greenlanders' relationship to the Danes. My writing is based on a fictional version of him, after he has died and is living as a ghost in the attic of the Arctic Institute....


Hinrich Rink resides on the 4th floor of a building in Christianshavn. He has always been a letter writer and wonders if his hair needs to be cut, beard trimmed. While diagramming East Greenlandic archaeological sites from memory he worries if he is becoming too similar to his drawings. Hinrich observes the meticulous spiders waiting for a random bit of food to penetrate through the archive’s airtight barricade. In the evening he paces back and forth for sheer enjoyment, when all is silent and the janitor has gone home.

Thumbing through boxes with folders and documents and drawers with drawings and maps, Rink purges his delight by counting how often his name occurs. This originated a few years ago while going through cases from 1840’s through 1880’s. So many letters and drafts and edits of his musings and good tidings and studies. But soon the practice became too easy for it was either he authoring the documents or his colleagues. The 1900’s would be a suitable jump, he thought. It became a challenge: to see if his work, his drawings and words lived beyond his departure from Greenland. Who mentioned him? What purpose were they using his insight from the 1800’s? Was he or his studies the topic of conversation? Despite his humbleness he had always considered his work of the utmost importance. Critical. He celebrated with a drink of schnapps when his name occurred, though it was seldom.


One day he came across a document that had slipped off the ledge of his memory and into the fjord. Waterlogged and dirty, he wondered what had caused its grave deterioration. Opening the folded brittle pages, he peered into his own handwriting, perfect penmanship of a middle aged man and not the nervous handling from an old, old man. Danish writing on one side and Greenlandic on the other - the lists and lists of words congregated into topics such as kajaking and land. The Greenlandic words swirled with the earth and its relationship to humans and to himself, as community, as individual, as wanderer, as hunter, as woman, as child, as dog, as storm and ice floe. Alive on the page Rink observed himself deciphering grammar and structure from Danish to Greenlandic and back again. The Danish words burned quickly away, offering no contoured landscape to ponder, no animal to bait. He quickly closed the pages, becoming self-conscious of himself spying on himself from 150 years ago. The pages shuddered back into their manila folder, back into their black archival box, back onto their metal shelf. And back he went to his nightly pacing.

This incident left him agitated over what else he may have misplaced. What else had gone missing? Old lovers and favourite dogs? Sunny hillsides and drafty houses? What else had disappeared into the brash waters of the fjord? Were they still traceable, leaving fishing line tails to catch? Did these things leave thank-you or ransom notes behind? The sacred pages that had opened this forgotten realm again lay dormant. He continued his usual shuffling of papers, journaling, diagramming, and sweeping cobwebs from his hair when he didn’t keep up with the lady spiders spinning.

Shyly, he began to play a game, though he would deny it. In his shuffling, journaling and diagramming he would open the black archival box and then proclaim how silly he was, for it was not the box he needed. This flirtation continued for a week. By the following week it had developed past opening the box. Now he took out the manila folder only to laugh and quickly repack it back onto the shelf. How long would this game continue, he finally proclaimed in exasperation as the spiders darted away at the commotion!

The next day, in his feigned confidence, Hinrich Rink approached the shelf and purposely took out the sacred folder that cradled the Danish to Greenlandic words. It was lovelier than he had remembered. He seated himself at his desk with its small lamp casting a glow upon the yellow stains. Again he steadily turned each page, willing himself to recall the strokes of his hand once placing the symbols so thoughtfully onto the paper. So many I’s and P’s and Q’s in this language, he observed. The longer he gazed at the two languages the more both wavered between towers and highways, golden grass prairies and vicious tornadoes, a fleet of schooners and a couple on a Sunday stroll. He glided through the lists of words, intertwining his fingers and toes through them, pulling on them to see if they would move and rearrange. But they held fast to their page, their order and lines.

That evening marked a homecoming. Hinrich Rink returned again and again to the archived folder that contained his own handwriting from 150 years before. In it was a letter from an American written in English. The letter explained Alaskan native populations’ dialects and stated the hope of answering all of Hinrich’s questions. Who was to say now? They may have been his questions then but many scholars had come since to ask and answer them over and over again. Hinrich scripted a response to the cordial letter to see how the fellow was getting along. But perhaps he was too late.

‘A’ to ‘B’ to ‘D’, Hinrich Rink tiptoed into the river of his Greenland memory. It was true that many had already flowed so far out into the fjord that he, in his old age, would never retrieve them. He came to feel ’nalusuunerup taarsuanit’ (out of the great darkness of ignorant people). Yet, now, not people but history’s vastness, and he would never find the point where the edges of light came together.

He remembered a time when Atuagagdliutit was young and infant in its circulation. How far it finally travelled along the Western Greenlandic coast by sledge, by boat, by word of mouth! How wonderful its hunting and trading news and stories flowed, filling the night air with the Greenlandic written word, other than the Bible, spoken out loud. He remembered the printing press crammed into his Godthåb home and its urgent thumping voice sometimes saying faster, faster! There is not enough time! Volume by volume the newspaper grew.

He remembered his friend Aron of Kangeq and the gift of color and line that flowed from the paper. The illustrations he imagined through Hinrich’s descriptions of war and fighting. Hinrich remembered the teacher training college built in Godthåb, 1845, and the Greenlanders who fulfilled curious destinies in contrast to their parents. Strange puddles began to appear on the floor and dew settled on the spiders’ webs. Heinrich recalled reading his paper ‘The Results of the Recent Danish Explorations in Greenland, with regards to the Inland Ice’ at the Edinburgh Geological Society’s meeting on 1886 and other papers he presented to this geological society and that historical society. Water began to cause his socks to remain wet all day. And soon the cuffs of his pants. He remembered………….. and ……………………. Soon his nightly pacing became replaced with nightly wading through knee-height floating text and typographies, folders and photos. Still he remembered …………….. and …………………… Soon he kept a towel close by so that his wet hands would not damage the filmy paper documents. Still he remembered …………… and ………………… Hinrich finally realized he could float on his back in the water. The flood was irreversible. It contained no foundation, no levy and no damn. No tree to push up against its banks, its shorelines. All were washed away.

Memory lifted Hinrich’s feet off the wooden floor. He caught hold of cardboard boxes spewing out personal correspondences from Danes celebrating Jule, caught hold of metal shelves releasing index cards of Inuit language dialects, caught hold of drawings and paintings from artists that he did not recognize. He dove to retrieve glass plate negatives already sinking into the papery sludge on the floor. But there was nowhere to keep them safe, unharmed, catalogued! The water, oh, the water of memory! And the memory of water! Cold, Arctic water, shading seal and whale, unlucky hunter and kajak! Memory’s fjord on the move as Spring turns to summer and its solid icebergs clef and birth! Rumbling and melting down and up over him! How Hinrich wanted to forget! Oh, Greenland! There is no way to forget! Jeg længes efter grønland igen!

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Danish Crown Prince visits the Arctic Institute


Last Tuesday the Arctic Institute hosted the Greenlandic Photography Contest winner presentation, which was co-sponsored with a Greenlandic and Danish newspaper.The Crown Prince Frederick attended to present the first prize to the winner who had been awarded a week long vacation in Copenhagen.

Yes, the Prince received a red carpet!



There was a 40 minute presentation with speeches from the Arctic Institute's director, the Representative from Greenland and Faroe Island. The 12 photos that won various other prizes were then shown. Finally the winning photograph was presented and the Prince handed over a nice bound book to the woman who won. She was given a week vacation in København along with (i think) a digital camera and money.


I got to play photographer for the event! That is the only reason why I was allowed to be there! Everyone else was either an 'esteemed guest', on the board of directors, was a photojournalist for the newspapers, or was part of the tour. Yeah Me!



He was then given a tour of the offices and talked with the document archivist and photo archivist. He seemed genuinely interested in what they were showing him and quite informal in talking with them. He was very charming and sincere.





The program ended with a casual reception back in the conference room.



And at the end when he was leaving, he went around and shook hands with everyone. So I got to shake hands with my first Prince!

Friday, October 24, 2008

A walk in the woods


My friend and I drove outside of Copenhagen yesterday after work to this huge park about 20 minutes outside of the city, with a lake and lots of trails.



We started from the Sophiesholm museum's parking lot, which is about 100 feet from the Prime Minister's home. There wasn't a single gate or guard with guns or anything around his house! Just a hedge row! You could have driven right into this driveway and up to his front door! We thought about doing this since he loves America so much, I figured he might welcome me! Or not....





We followed the lake for a while and then cut into the woods and out to the river that runs beside it.



There were a lot of people running on the trails and the weather was that Autumn crisp evening air.



The leaves have really come down here in the past 2 weeks. It was nice to see some actual Fall color in the woods!

Friday, October 10, 2008

Rasmussen's house!




Last Sunday, a friend and I went up to see Knud Rasmussen's house. It was really rainy and super windy all day. Rasmussen was born in Grønland from a Greenlandic mom and a Danish dad. He started running sledge dogs at a very young age and when he got older, established the Thule trading post. He made many expeditions around Grønland and eastern Canada. His most famous expedition was the 5th Thule Expedition across the entire Canadian Arctic all the way to Russia. Actually, he was only in the Russian arctic for 24 hours before he was kicked out. During this expedition, he visited every Inuit group living in the Arctic collecting stories, amulets, songs, and at some point had a filmographer/photographer with him. At the beginning of the expedition, there were biologists and archaeologists also accompanying him in the eastern Arctic doing things such as digs at ancient Inuit sites.


His house of course faces Northwest towards Grønland.




Rasmussen is considered a national hero of sorts. He accomplished a lot during his short lifetime.


A bed with a musk ox fur blanket on it. It was rather rough fur.


Death portrait of Rasmussen along with his trusty Winchester.


It finally stopped raining when we were getting ready to leave but then we were able to walk up to the lighthouse and take super wind blown photos out into the ocean.